Food tasting in Budapest

The touring of the castle left us hungry and once we were back down on Danube level we made our way to Horgásztanya, a place that looks as if it has been around for years (which it has) but serves a great Hungarian fish soup. When I put together my restaurant list for this trip I came across the fish soup. Until then I didn’t even know that Hungary had a tradition for fish as well.


The restaurant is actually at the other side of the block but I love the sailor on this one! Also I forgot to take a picture while we were there and this on is from the bus tour the next day.

Take a look around the place, it has quite an unique decor.


Poor Susi had to come with us although she doesn’t eat fish. There is not much else to order besides all kinds of fish soup, fish and meat dishes. There is basically nothing for vegetarians. So she ate a cabbage salad while we sampled the soup.


Love the way how it was served and it was super delicious!

And all within walking distance of the Chain Bridge which we crossed right after the meal with another view on the parliament.

Every good meal deserves a dessert, which we wanted to eat at Gerbeaud. The Gerbeaud coffeehouse is well-known for its cakes and has a long history. Coming from a land with a tradition in coffeehouses and cakes, we nonetheless wanted to try what our former “crownland” had to offer.

What they did offer compares with the best! A beautiful coffeehouse, delicious coffee (at least mine, Susi tried the “exclusive” one and it was sour) and mouth-watering cakes.


Cat decided to stay with the beer and got some nuts with it. They seemed to taste especially good!


When we left the coffeehouse it was already dark outside and we did a little shopping at the Christmas market in front of Gerbeaud.


We also looked on how the traditional Hungarian chimney cake was prepared but at that moment there was just no room to try it.


And then more shopping along the Váci ut which is a super long pedestrian zone. Although it was not so much shopping as stopping at every store to warm up again.


Finally we decided to go for a drink. It was dark after all and we knew if we went back to the hotel for a short siesta, there would be a good chance that we might not leave the place again that evening. The name of the wine bar was Borkonyha – Wine Kitchen, right at the end (or rather beginning) of Váci ut and actually the least tourist looking place although it was a hotel bar. Upon looking at the website now I noticed that it was recommended by Michelin and Gault Millau, no wonder the tourists in the back were making such satisfied noises.


From there it was only a short walk to our next destination that evening. Since it was Sunday night the choice was limited to begin with. The reception had made a reservation that morning for Ruben, a restaurant from a guide book. It had the added advantage of being near the hotel. The walk to it was eerie though since not one light worked in the street of the restaurant and the place was rather at the end. At least the place itself was illuminated.


Inside it was small with gallery on top for more diners and the kitchen.


Quite the cozy dining experience, only the food didn’t live up to it.

We shared as starter Hungary’s best (different meats) which turned out to be good and was quickly devoured.


The second course we shared as well, stuffed meat crepes with red pepper sauce. Definitely the highlight of the meal. So sorry that the picture is blurred, I had to rush to take it before Cat ate all.


Meanwhile Susi had a salad and gave Tici the cold eye. Wonder what had piqued her interest?


I refrained from ordering more (unbelievable I know) and had only a small “Retro” cucumber salad. I kid you not, it was really called retro. But of course you are right, I shared the crepe with Cat.


From then on it was all downhill for me. I had the weekly special of lamb with pumpkin as main course and the lamb was overdone while the pumpkin was more than crunchy, the others had duck with mango, pasta with cheese (and a substantial amount of garlic) and a stuffed cabbage roll.


With a good bottle of wine these mountains of food were manageable. Still, the restaurant was nice but only excelled in the typical dishes category.

After dinner we were ready to try another bar, this time the Tip Top Bar. Right around the corner of Ruben’s and on the way to the hotel we were ready for a last round. As it turned out the Wallpaper City Guide has another tip to update, this bar was closed too. Defeated we trudged back to the hotel only to find a large nativity set on our way and the girls had nothing better to do than strike a pose with it. And of course it was still raining, let’s not forget about that.


In the end we settled for a drink at the hotel bar, after all this one was still open.
Yours, Pollybert


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