One would assume that the color scheme of Café Azzurro is somewhat blue. That pink found it’s way here through me off a little bit, when I looked for it on the already dark Urban-Loritz-Platz. Eventually I figured it must be the place with the pink neon sign, as there was also a terrace out. When I came closer I noticed the blue window frames.
Inside Café Azzurro was still empty, it was after all only 5:30 when we arrived. Only one other table was occupied, thankfully next to us so I had the chance to take a look what might come our way.
The menu is short and compact with four starters, three main dishes, two desserts, and one intermediate course. There was also an amuse gueule available for the table, with extra Yiddish chopped liver and extra bread. In the end we decided on getting the amuse gueule, plus the liver, and all four starters to share. After that we would decided if we wanted to order anything more.
The amuse gueule consisted of chuncky slices of bread served with sheep milk butter, small spicy olives, and pickled vegetables. The Yiddish liver arrived in a little glass pot. The bread and butter were absolutely fabulous and would have been enough as amuse gueule. There was something mixed into the butter, maybe some cheese or maybe I just imagined it. But the butter was perfect. Salty, cold, and delicious! The pickled vegetables were a seasonal mix with carrots, sweet potato, radish, and celeriac. The olives were also good, seedless and had a nice spice level.
It was just the Yiddish liver that disappointed me. I loved the first bite, creamy with a hint of clove and cinnamon. But with the second one this became cloying and not enjoyable anymore. The liver was also too creamy, almost liquid in its consistence. No, Yiddish liver tastes different and whatever that was, did not convince me.
The four starters all came at the same time, something I quite dislike. I mean, who wants to rush through a meal? This was especially annoying since I had asked the waiter before and the way it sounded was, that dishes would be served once they became available in the kitchen. Not so though, a chef came out and served everything at once.
We got a warm red beets with sauce Hollandaise and buckwheat. The beets were firm and soft at the same, just perfectly cooked. The sauce didn’t work with it in my opinion. The beet itself has an earthy taste, which is enjoyable on its own. The buttery sauce just made everything a little blander. While it was okay, it’s not a dish I would order again.
The other warm dish was dandelion, potatoes, miso dressing, and parmesan salad. The potatoes were warm, but there were not enough on the plate for me to try one. I can imagine though that the warm potatoes worked well with the bitter leave salad, miso, and cheese. My friend deemed this plate the best one of the evening. The combination of miso and cheese with the dandelion worked for me. It would have been nice if the portion could have been a little bigger.
Café Azzurro also a beef tartar on the menu that I really wanted to taste. The last one I ate was delicious and I am always a fan of raw meat. Not so much here though. The bread was toasted and bone marrow mixed with sauteed onions spread on top. The beef was served on the side and appeared to be seasoned with capers. The single leaf of parsley took a wrong turn somewhere in my opinion.
We managed to cut the bread in slices, but eating it together was almost impossible. The meat didn’t stay on the slippery marrow onion mix, permanently threatening to fall off. After I managed a first bite, I was weirdly disappointed. The combination had sounded so promising, but didn’t do much for my palate. The bread with with the onion marrow mixture was too sweet and the meat lacked almost all flavor. It got totally overwhelmed by the caramelised onions. But even eating it separately it didn’t do much for the tartar. It just lacked seasoning. It was nicely cut though and of good quality. But don’t you find it has the appearance of cat food?
Last but not least we divided the mackerel sandwich with sour cream radish. Mackerel is my least favorite fish along with carp. Too fatty and a dislike since childhood. As it turned out, the fish was outstanding. It had a melt in your mouth texture and a very nice flavor. It was not fatty at all, at least not in the way I remember so distinctly. Overall the most interesting part of the meal. Unfortunately the sandwich version didn’t work. I liked the creamy radish with the mackerel together, albeit the mackerel on its own was sheer perfection. The bread had some extra flavor on it, what exactly I cannot say. In the end it was too rich and took away from the fish.
So the big question is, would I come again for dinner? Probably yes! Some of the things I ate here were marvelous! Think the butter and the mackerel! But I would manage it differently the second time around. The sharing part didn’t work in my opinion. Especially since the sandwiches were not pre-cut and and a sharp knife needed to be found first, when we asked for one. The two main dishes I saw in passing looked way more enticing and were pricewise lot more attractive. In particular when I compared it to the prices of the starters and what we got for it.
There is not much else in the area, so Café Azzurro will see it fair share of guests. When we left the restaurant was full and every table occupied. I will give it some time and see how it fares at my next visit. Yours, Pollybert
Café Azzurro
1070 Wien, Urban-Loritz-Platz 5
Tel: +43 670 2032023
Email: ciao@cafe-azzurro.at
Mon-Fri:10:00-23:00
https://cafe-azzurro.at/english/