It was a hot day in Vienna, though the evening promised a bit of relief with a light breeze. Not that it made much difference for us, since Merk&Würdig doesn’t have a terrace. The few seats outside are reserved for those who need a smoke, so everyone else has to stay inside.
no terrace @Merk&Würdig
The entrance door reminded me of a butcher’s cold storage, and for once, the impression wasn’t misleading. Inside, it was pleasantly cool without feeling chilly. Maybe thanks to the portable fan quietly humming prominently on the counter.
open kitchen area and fan @Merk&Würdig
Merk&Würdig was still in its soft opening phase when I visited, and the service staff were clearly still finding their rhythm. The drinks menu stretched across the room on a bright yellow banner, and I started the evening with an Americano. Unfortunately, it arrived rather flat, as if the soda had already lost its fizz. Our waiter noticed I wasn’t impressed and promptly replaced it. The second attempt was a bit better, but the soda remained an issue at Merk&Würdig. Even the white wine spritzer turned out underwhelming.
drinks menu all around @Merk&Würdig
The bread basket here comes with soda, Prosecco, and either a warm or cold wet hand towel, depending on the season. Since none of us wanted bread, we decided to skip it. I definitely wasn’t tempted, since the bread was served with whipped butter. Who’s still serving that in 2025?
We also passed on the “Chef’s Choice,” described on the menu as the full program. It turned out to be just a couple of snacks and three dishes from the tapas menu, with the snacks sounding more like simple nibbles or nuts. We were hoping for something a bit more substantial. Not that any of the dishes at Merk&Würdig are particularly big anyway.
We started our meal with kimchi and pickled vegetables. The kimchi had already been fermenting for a while and had a really nice level of spice. The pickled vegetables included carrots, other root vegetables, and even wild garlic berries. All in all super delicious and something completely new for me.
Kimchi and pickled vegetables @Merk&Würdig
Next up was the golden trout with oysters, kohlrabi, horseradish, and Maiwipferl (fresh green fir shoots). The cured trout was arranged on a bed of kohlrabi, while the oysters were processed into creamy white dollops of sauce. The vegetables and sauce created a white canvas for the trout, making the dish look like a modern painting. The flavors were wonderful, especially the trout paired with the sauce. It was a truly delightful combination.
golden trout with kohlrabi @Merk&Würdig
The green d’Antan tomato arrived in a small cup that instantly reminded me of the ones from childhood trips to the ice cream parlor with my grandmother.
green d’Antan tomato @Merk&Würdig
Green tomato, pickled chicory, Stracciatella, and cashew nuts rounded out this dreamy dish. The tomato also featured in the airy espuma on top, which impressively held its shape while I took photos. The quirky little snake-shaped cracker was made from cashew nuts as well. I really enjoyed this combination. The passion fruit in the dressing added a bright dash of acidity that tied everything together beautifully.
green d’Antan tomato with espuma and cracker @Merk&Würdig
The first warm dish was bavette with wild broccoli and Café de Paris sauce. Personally, I found the flank steak a bit too chewy, though the others at the table enjoyed it. The broccoli, topped with crispy panko crumbs, had a perfect bite. The sauce was rich and buttery, thick enough to dip the meat in and coat it nicely. Still, this was my least favorite dish of the evening, but opinions at the table were split.
Bavette with broccoli @Merk&Würdig
I much preferred the alpine char with eggplant, yeast, and verbena. The fish was beautifully glassy and juicy—an absolute joy to eat. The peeled eggplant had a delicious miso-glazed flavor, and the yeast, hidden in the sauce, was fantastic. A truly outstanding dish!
alpine char with eggplant @Merk&Würdig
Last but not least, we had king oyster mushrooms with celeriac, cheddar, and lovage. Opinions were divided on this dish as well. The mushrooms delivered a rich umami flavor that oddly reminded me of Mapo tofu, even though it was an entirely different creation. The flavors were intense, and I was glad we were sharing everything. In the end, I finished the dish myself since I enjoyed it the most and didn’t mind polishing it off. By the way, the cheddar was white, turns out the orange color in cheddar comes from a natural food coloring.
king oyster mushrooms with celeriac and cheddar @Merk&Würdig
Despite the tapas-sized portions, we were more or less full by the end of the meal and decided to leave for one last drink on a terrace. As much as I loved the food, sitting inside on a warm evening just isn’t my thing. Funnily enough, I realized how American that preference is during my recent trip—except for one occasion, we always ate indoors. But here in Vienna, we love to sit outside whenever the weather allows it. Maybe a terrace is planned for the future; it would be a welcome addition. Yours, Pollybert
Merk&Würdig
1020 Wien, Ausstellungsstrasse 53
Tel: +43 660 7888701
Email: hallo@merkundwuerdig.at
Mon-Sun: 08:00-24:00 from September 2025 on (currently: Tue-Sat: 16:00-22:00)
https://www.merkundwuerdig.at/
