A very long time ago I spent a weekend in Brno. I think it was in the middle of winter and shortly after the Iron Curtain fell, so my main impression from Brno was grey and bleak. Since Brno is only an hour away by train, it was never much on my mind after that one visit. Which was definitely a mistake, because it should have been. It’s a beautiful vibrant city and there are many reasons why you should stop here as well.
I used a long weekend in May to see for myself how Brno has rejuvenated itself in the last decades. It was certainly dazzling. Gone was the soot and grey of the communist area, and a gem has reappeared. We arrived by train, which brings you basically right downtown. The Royal Ricc hotel was just off the Zelný Trh, or farmers market, and has an excellent breakfast.
We spent the weekend walking underneath Brno, through the tunnels underneath Zelný Trh, the ossuary of the St. James church, and the Capuchin Crypt, but also above the city while looking out from the city hall tower or walking all the way up to to the of Špilberk Castle.
But let’s not forget the Villa Tugendhat, a prototype of modern architecture from 1930 and on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Tickets for it seem to be the proverbial unicorn, everyone has heard they exist, nobody has ever visited the villa though. When we were in Brno the garden between the Villa Tugendhat and the Villa Löw-Beer was open, so we could stroll around the garden. While there, I saw that people walked around the villa. So it must be possible to get tickets.
But not only the ‘new’ buildings impressed me, also the old ones were a sight to behold.
I was more than glad that we had a long weekend for strolling through the city and exploring every nook and cranny. Brno is worth a trip, not only for its architecture but also for its many café and pubs. Not just the beer was excellent, also the gin tonic. In any case, don’t miss out on all there is to discover. Yours, Pollybert
PS: I can’t remember the name of the small café, but we found it from the top of the old Town Hall. The big sun shades in the courtyard gave it away.