The Burgtheater is probably the best known theater in the German speaking world and has held this leading role since 1748. At that time it stood at a different location, as the name derives from ‘a theater next to the Burg’. In this case it was the Hofburg, home of the imperial court of Austria over which empress Maria Theresia presided in 1748. The theater moved to its current location in 1888 and has since stood proudly on the Ring, across the road from the city hall.
As an English speaking tourist there is probably little reason to visit the theater for a performance, as they are in German. However, a guided tour behind the curtain might be just the thing, as the building itself is an architectural marvel. There was a specific reason for my visit now, as one of the two side staircases is currently under renovation. I was hoping to join the special tour that allows close access to the Klimt ceiling fresco at the Landtmannstiege. Visitors can climb the scaffolding and stand directly beneath the fresco.
Unfortunately, tickets are not easy to obtain. This tour is only available until June 2026, after which the renovations should be completed. Tickets are released only on the 10th of the previous month at 10am, with a limit of two per person. So if you want to go in June, you need to queue on May 10th. If the Klimt experience is not essential, or viewing it from a distance is enough, the regular guided tour is still very worthwhile. That was the option I ended up taking.
The tour begins in the main entrance hall, the one intended for ordinary visitors. The magnificent side entrances with their grand staircases were historically reserved for the nobility and the emperor. The currently renovated staircase was for the nobility, while the one on the opposite side, closer to the palace, was used by the emperor. From here we split into three groups, two in German and one in English, and immediately headed toward the staircase under renovation. There is not much to see at the moment, but the guide provided background on the building and the restoration. The staircase is called Landtmannstiege because it faces Café Landtmann, which was founded in 1873.
Landtmannstiege @Burgtheater
We then moved into the auditorium, where another group was already seated near the stage. As the tour took place on a Sunday, technicians were preparing for the evening performance. During the week the schedule differs, with rehearsals in the morning. The staff therefore works in shifts to prepare the stage accordingly. More than 500 people work for and with the Burgtheater, and most of them are not on stage.
work in progress @Burgtheater
During the pandemic, the Burgtheater came up with an inventive idea to generate at least some income. The seating arrangement was slightly altered so that seats are staggered rather than directly aligned behind one another. At the same time, the seats themselves were upgraded, making them far more comfortable for long performances.
auditorium @Burgtheater
Afterwards, we went behind the stage and took in that unmistakable theater atmosphere. Unfortunately, we were not allowed into the dressing rooms, but we still walked the same corridors as many great performers.
the halls behind @Burgtheater
There was even an old fashioned telephone device in place. I am still not quite sure how it works, as there is no dial.
telephone with no chance to call @Burgtheater
The stage itself is almost the same size as the auditorium, but roughly twice the height, to accommodate the lifting of the extensive equipment.
the stage from the back @Burgtheater
looking up @Burgtheater
Leaving the stage behind we ascended the Landtmannstiege to the level of the main foyer. The level of detail here is astonishing and clearly reflects its original use by the nobility.
the side stairs @Burgtheater
entrance to the foyer @Burgtheater
Personally, I found the foyer the most impressive room in the building. The long hall along the Ring offers a clear view of the city hall opposite, but it is the sheer length of the space, lined with portraits of celebrated Austrian actors and actresses, that makes walking through it such a pleasure.
the long foyer @Burgtheater
portrait of the young Josef Meinrad @Burgtheater
In contrast, the buffet area feels almost modern, with its sleek and monochrome design.
buffet @Burgtheater
Finally, our group reached the imperial staircase to view the frescoes by Gustav Klimt. The ceiling paintings were recently restored after water damage from a leaking roof. Following that work, the decision was made to carefully restore the remaining frescoes at the other staircase as well. The result is impressive, with details now clearly visible.
imperial staircase @Burgtheater
One fresco was described by our guide as the first selfie, as the artist included himself and his family in the scene, each in different roles.
Klimt fresco @Burgtheater
The tour was both enjoyable and informative. Even as a Viennese, I learned several new things. One particularly striking tradition concerns the death of an ensemble member. Regardless of where they pass away, their body is brought back and laid in state on the imperial staircase, where colleagues can say their goodbyes. The coffin is then carried or driven around the theater so the public can pay their respects with a final round of applause. In the case of Claus Peymann, a highly influential director and manager of the Burgtheater, his coffin was even transported from Berlin to Vienna for this final honor.
The Burgtheater does not forget its members. Yours, Pollybert
Burgtheater
1010 Wien, Universitätsring 2
Tel: +43 1 514444545
Email: info@burgtheater.at
https://www.burgtheater.at/
