Cesky Krumlov had already been my destination for a weekend once before. That was years ago, when my friends and I stayed for two nights, toured the castle and, more importantly, visited the brewery in Budweis on our way home. So coming back felt rather interesting, as I was convinced that nothing much would have changed.
What did change was my choice of accommodation. This time we booked ourselves into the Krumlov Tower, a defensive tower dating from the late 15th century. Best of all, parking is right across the street, so there was no need to drag our luggage through the whole town.
Krumlov Tower @Cesky Krumlov
We arrived in the evening, just in time for dinner at Fajr 99 Bar & Grill after a full day on the road from Karlovy Vary, including a stop at Zvíkov Castle. The next morning we had breakfast at Bistro Topinka, and I can absolutely recommend both places. Do yourself a favour and make a reservation, as Cesky Krumlov gets busy in summer. The beer at dinner was fantastic, but the steaks from the grill were the clear winner.
great beer @Fajr 99 Grill & Bar
We had booked a place on the free walking tour, something I had already done on my first visit to Cesky Krumlov. That might sound a little boring, but for all my friends who were here for the first time, it was the perfect solution. We only had until the afternoon, and the tour gave us the chance to see all the main sights. The meeting point was at 10:30am on Svornosti Square, which left us just enough time to visit the Schiele Museum beforehand. Thankfully, it opens at 10am.
waiting in front of the Schiele museum @Cesky Krumlov
Personally, I enjoyed the walk from breakfast into the centre the most. There were only a few people around, and the town was still wonderfully quiet. The view of the castle tower is always a pleasure. Its colourful layers remind me of a giant wedding cake, going from vanilla to strawberry to pistachio.
view on the castle tower @Cesky Krumlov
beautifully painted facade @Cesky Krumlov
Once the tour started, we got a brief introduction to the town and its history before heading up to the viewing platform. The view of the castle from here is simply incomparable, especially when you see its enormous size towering above all the tiny houses below.
Castle Krumlov @Cesky Krumlov
The other building standing high above the town is the Church of St. Vitus. Unlike the castle, it sits smack in the middle of the historic centre and is impossible to miss.
Saint Vitus Church as seen from the castle @Cesky Krumlov
inside @Saint Vitus Church
While exploring Cesky Krumlov with our guide, it was obvious that the town has become quite the tourist magnet. Yet somehow it has not lost any of its lustre. The old buildings survived wars and communism and have been brought back to life. Some renovations are still ongoing, but that is hardly surprising considering the size of the historic centre.
walking around @Cesky Krumlov
gorgeously renovated @Cesky Krumlov
same same, but different @Cesky Krumlov
Some renovations are still ongoing.
some houses still need repairs @Cesky Krumlov
Eventually, we landed in front of the castle, or rather next to the castle tower. This pastel coloured edifice is such a landmark of Cesky Krumlov. Weirdly beautiful in its layered structure, it looks almost too perfect to be real.
Castle Krumlov Tower @Cesky Krumlov
The tour took us through the courtyards of the castle, all of which are accessible without a ticket. It is worth your time and money, though, to take a guided tour through the castle itself, as I did on my first visit. It was a real pity that we did not have enough time for it this time around.
first courtyard of the castle @Cesky Krumlov
When you walk all the way through the castle, you end up next to the castle theatre and an amazing viewpoint over the city and the castle. From here you can really appreciate just how far the castle stretches along the river.
the castle in all its glory @Cesky Krumlov
With one last look into the castle gardens, we left Cesky Krumlov behind and made our way back to Vienna.
castle garden @Cesky Krumlov
One day did not feel like enough, but since it was my second visit, I was okay with it. For everyone else, however, this was definitely far too short. If you have never been to Cesky Krumlov, give yourself more time. There is plenty to see, and once again I found myself enjoying the town despite all the tourists. Yours, Pollybert
