Canterbury

Canterbury has seen pilgrims since the Middle Ages. But even before that the Romans were here and the first cathedral already stood in Canterbury at the end of the 6th century. Driving there from Bethersden, our main hub, to Canterbury took ages. Maps.me, my preferred offline road guide, led us mostly through one way back roads. The drive was scenic, but didn’t leave much room to explore Canterbury before we needed to arrive at the cathedral.

We had booked our tickets for the entrance online and our entry window was the hour before noon. Shortly before the appointed hour we made it to the cathedral and booked an additional guided tour.

The tour was really worth every penny, our knowledgeable guide lead us around the cathedral for almost two hours. The church from the 6th century on this site had been completely rebuilt around 1070. Enlargements, restorations, and rebuilding followed during the coming centuries. Some renovations even lead to bizarre architectural features. Like this tomb which was too long for the side chapel, and now just sticks out on the side.

The violent death of Thomas Becket , at the hands of men in the pay of Henry II., in 1170 on site lead to a huge pilgrim influx. A fire in the following years was conveniently used for enlargements to better direct the pilgrims.

All the way at the end you can see the quire screen. It looks amazing when you get closer.

Becket’s remains have been destroyed during the reign of Henry VIII. So unfortunately the golden box with his bones cannot be viewed anymore. But at the alleged killing place stands a little altar with a cross, made from swords, above.

The altar area behind the quire screen was actually not that interesting. I rather like the idea that the common folk always stared the beautiful screen imagining what went on behind.

In the aisle around the altar area there was the tomb of the ‘Black Prince‘, the son of Edward III. Due to his death his son, Richard II., became king at the young age of 10 years. His mismanagement lead to his removal and further on to the ‘Wars of Roses‘.  In any case the Black Prince was one of the greatest knights of his time.

His shield and cloak above his tomb are only copies. The originals are displayed in the crypt.

His was not the only tomb around the apse, but maybe the oldest. Here is one from an archbishop, which looked a lot more pompous.

But also the side chapels, like here St. Michael’s chapel, have resting places for important people.

The crypt below has a couple of interesting graffiti, which were really cool to look at, but hard to capture. Here is my attempt of taking a picture of one.

In the crypt there is also a small exhibition, so take your time while you are down below. There is much to discover.

Also, do not miss the Chapter House and the cloister on the north side of the Cathedral.

After this extensive cathedral visit, we stopped at the sandwich place on the cathedral grounds for something cold to drink. The view from there on the cathedral is lovely.

Once outside the cathedral area, we walked to the Old Weavers House to see the ducking stool. This stool was used for all kinds of people as punishment. The Inn itself is in a really old building and deserves a closer look because of the ducking stool. I wouldn’t stay for a meal though. Yours, Pollybert