The Salzkammergut is one of the most beautiful regions in Austria. It’s an area where three provinces meet, Upper Austria, Styria, and Salzburg, and the result is breathtaking. Lakes, mountains, and an abundance of green meadows. Combine that with good food, childhood memories, and great friends, and you will understand why I like to come here. This is the right place if you enjoy fresh air and clean water, and just want to do nothing for a while. most people come for Hallstatt to this region, but the Salzkammergut is so much more. Especially since it is European Culture Capital of 2024.
The last time I was in the area we had rented a cabin in Altaussee. Long before that I’ve been to Gmunden, Bad Ischl, and some other places around there. In the last couple of years I’ve been back for short weekend trips to say goodbye to a place very dear to my heart.
Grünau im Almtal might be famous for its lake and the grey geese of Konrad Lorenz, but it is also the village where I spent all the summers of my youth. The water in the river Alm is so clear that you can see everything, but it is also so cold that you immediately get goosebumps.
the Alm river on a warm summer day @Grünau im Almtal
getting goosebumps @Grünau im Almtal
When I was young I didn’t real care for all the green meadows and mountains around me. It was always the river Alm that held my heart and what we could do next to it. Build huge bonfires and try catching a fish illegally. As a child it was so much fun to jump from the dam in the river and drift close to our house without ending up completely frozen. Nowadays I just manage to put my toes in.
what trickles down from the dam @Grünau im Almtal
childhood home @Grünau im Almtal
the view from my room @Grünau im Almtal
Always worth a visit is Bad Ischl, the former summer residence of the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I. and his wife Elisabeth better known as Sissi. The cultural event was opened here and the town has a wonderful Ai Weiwei exhibition on display. I haven’t had a chance so far, but there’s still time. In any case the Habsburg past is everywhere on display, don’t miss out on a visit to Café Konditorei Zauner and a Cremeschnitte.
best of luck in this alley @Bad Ischl
drink your coffee at Sissi’s café @Bad Ischl
Just around the corner lies St. Wolfgang, a picturesque town on the right beside a lake of the same name. The village is cute on the brink of kitsch, with lots of tourists. Still, there are always moments why I understand it’s overrun.
in the center @St. Wolfgang
almost turquoise water @St. Wolfgang
If you drive further along the lake from St. Wolfgang the road ends in a cul-de-sac, where the Ferienhort am Wolfgangsee has its prominent seat. During the year it’s a school, but in summer it’s a camp for students from all over the world. I spent one unforgettable summer there, but I still come back to visit my godchildren from time to time.
Ferienhort @St. Wolfgang
When I went back this year the stairs were covered to provide shelter from the often threatening rain in this area. It makes sense to create a large outdoor space for all the students to meet, even when the weather doesn’t play its part. I just loved the view like this way better, because it reminded me of my time at the Ferienhort.
still unrestricted view from the Ferienhort on the lake @St. Wolfgang
Bad Goisern, lies on the Hallstätter See and is just one short boat ride from Hallstatt away. It was my destination for a weekend, and especially lovely since I stayed at my friend’s place. But there are some great hotels in the area like the Lesehotel, which is especially for book nerds but not only. The view from the reading room up here was magical.
the view on the lake from the Lesehotel @Bad Goisern
reading room @Lesehotel
We tried in vain to visit the exhibition in Bad Goisern, which is part of the European Cultural Capital. Unfortunately it’s located inside the Handwerkhaus and therefore keeps shopping hours. In the countryside this means at 12pm on the dot the doors close until Monday morning. So far, so inviting for international guests. On the other hand all the more reason to just relax and admire the view.
Best of all though were the home-cooked meals I enjoyed, big bowls of pasta and the most delicious plum dumpling. I had to ask for the recipe, which you can find here in German for apricots. But just use whatever stone fruit you have at hand. Yours, Pollybert
the best plum dumpling @Bad Goisern
