While the name Frigo may evoke associations with a fridge, I am happy to report that the restaurant was sufficently heated. That said, it did feel a little cool after a while, which may have been caused by a cold draft from outside. It was a rather freezing evening. I liked that the terrace had two tables prepared with lights and blankets for smokers and anyone who wanted to join them. Very thoughtful to make everyone comfortable!
terrace in winter @Frigo
Inside, the restaurant felt cozy, with a thick curtain in front of the door to keep drafts to a minimum. The lighting was soft and the room promised more of a living room atmosphere than a classic fine dining experience. But the two do not exclude each other, and we were in for a treat.
dining room @Frigo
We chose the five course menu, which can only be ordered per table as the dishes are meant to be shared. We started with the cover, which at Frigo was anything but usual. We were served delicious bread from Meinklang, pickled vegetables with a syrupy vegetable sauce mainly based on red beet, fried beef cheek bites with another excellent dipping sauce, raw pumpkin salad with coconut milk and roasted pumpkin seeds, and butter.
bread, butter, and some extras @Frigo
I had asked for regular butter because I had seen the whipped version on a neighboring table and did not fancy it. Changing it was no problem at all. Butter and bread alone would already have been worth the cover charge, but the additional small dishes elevated it to something special. The mix of pickled vegetables included celery stalks, radishes, and carrots. The syrup was intense, but its earthy and fruity flavors worked exceptionally well with the pickles.
The fried beef cheek bites were hot and comforting, with a dipping sauce that paired beautifully. The raw pumpkin salad surprised me at first, as the flavor combination seemed to come out of nowhere. After the first forkful I was convinced. Asian influences are always a hit with me.
The menu continued with several dishes from the cold dishes section, although not all of them actually arrived cold. First up was marinated rainbow trout with leek, mandarin, and sour cream on a bed of avocado cream. At least I think it was avocado. In hindsight leek cream would make more sense, but I no longer remember that flavor clearly. Whatever it was, it worked very well with the fish and the other components.
marinated trout @Frigo
The trout melted in the mouth and the citrus from the mandarin added depth and complexity. I could have happily eaten an entire bowl of it. It was a beautiful dish.
Next came carrots with coconut cream, poppy seed, and sumac. This was another surprising combination and not something I would normally order, which is exactly why I enjoy tasting menus where the chef decides.
carrots with sumac and coconut cream @Frigo
The carrots were cooked and generously sprinkled with sumac, resting in a coconut citrus cream. The poppy seeds appeared as crunchy snaps scattered on top. As strange as this may sound, the dish worked very well and was delicious. The coconut cream tasted fresh and almost summery, at least that is how I remember it.
Another leek dish followed, this time braised with miso and resting on almond cream, topped with roasted flaked almonds, salted lemon, and leek ash. It arrived warm, which made me question the cold dishes category in my head. In any case it was another winner. Leek can be dull, but here it was allowed to shine. The whole composition was wonderful.
braised leek @Frigo
Alongside it came a plate of beef tartare, which at Frigo is cut rather than minced, served with truffle cream and king oyster mushrooms. I initially thought there were nuts on the plate, possibly walnuts, as they looked nutty and crunchy. It turned out the brown bits were the mushrooms. The tartare was fabulous and I could easily have eaten it all on my own. The textures and flavors were spot on and the quality of the meat outstanding.
beef tartare @Frigo
Thinking that we would move on to the main course at this point turned out to be a mistake. Another dish arrived, also listed among the cold dishes but served warm. It was a thick wedge of charred pointed cabbage with buckwheat, onion, and yeast. The yeast was incorporated into a sauce and therefore slightly sweet. Pickled red onions added acidity and the buckwheat brought crunch. While the cabbage was good, it was my least favorite dish of the evening. It may have been the combination of cabbage and yeast sauce, or perhaps I was simply ready for something else. After the beef tartare I found myself craving meat. Still, as a guest who eats what is served unless it is bad, I finished the dish. It was good. I was just full and ready to move on.
pointed cabbage with yeast @Frigo
Finally the meat arrived, though by then I was already quite satisfied. A sliced ribeye with tongue ragout, onion tarte, and celeriac mash appeared on a plate. The celeriac cream was incredibly soft and buttery. The meat was tender and grilled perfectly. The tongue ragout was excellent and such a clever pairing with the steak. Two different textures, both beautifully soft. I only managed one bite of the onion tarte, which was lovely, but by then the cabbage had done its job and there was simply no room left.
ribeye with onion tarte @Frigo
With the steak came a second main course, a pasta dish. Fregola Sarda is still rare in Vienna, although I love cooking with it at home. Here it was served with pecorino, kale, and lemon pepper. Unfortunately I did not do this dish justice either. It was too rich after everything else, especially as I wanted to focus on the meat. It was tasty, though, and deserved more attention than I could give it.
Fregola Sarda @Frigo
Despite my firm claim that I was completely full, the waitress was right. There is always room for dessert. The chestnut, orange, red beet, and chocolate creation was the perfect ending. Frozen chestnut cream was grated at the table over a scoop of red beet ice cream, accompanied by chocolate crumbs. The orange was in there somewhere, though I no longer recall in which form, but I still remember the flavor. As well as the salt crystals in the chocolate. The dessert was not overly sweet, rather a lively combination of flavors without being heavy. And of course we finished it all!
grated chestnut with red beet ice cream @Frigo
I truly enjoyed my visit to Frigo. The food was excellent and the service warm and attentive throughout the evening. This is a place I would very much like to return to, preferably when it is warmer and the kitchen presents a new menu. I was told that it changes continuously. In any case, Frigo is a wonderful addition to the Viennese restaurant scene. Yours, Pollybert
Frigo
1040 Wien, Grosse Neugasse 31
Tel: +43 681 2011 33 11
Email: mail@restaurant-frigo.at
Tue-Thu: 16:00-23:00, Fri-Sat: 16:00-24:00
https://restaurant-frigo.at/
