Karlovy Vary has been famous for its thermal springs for centuries. Although the spa culture truly flourished during the 19th century, the healing waters were already well known in the 14th century. According to legend, Emperor Charles IV discovered one of the hot springs while out hunting. After the mineral water helped heal an injured leg, he granted the nearby settlement town privileges and gave it his own name.
The rest is history. Karlovy Vary flourished for centuries until the First World War brought its golden age to an abrupt end. The Second World War and the years behind the Iron Curtain further slowed its development. Ironically, this also helped preserve the town. Today Karlovy Vary has once again become a popular tourist destination and much of it looks remarkably unchanged since its 19th century heyday.
former imperial spa @Karlovy Vary
We stayed at Villa Basilea, a charming hotel right beside the river with spacious and comfortable rooms. It does not have its own spa, but I loved starting the day with a morning run along the riverside.
Villa Basilea @Karlovy Vary
If you are after something more luxurious, the Grandhotel Pupp is the town’s most famous address. With its long history and elegant interiors, it regularly hosts many of the stars attending the Karlovy Vary International Film Festival.
Grandhotel Pupp @Karlovy Vary
the Grandhotel Pupp at night @Karlovy Vary
As Karlovy Vary was part of the Austrian Empire during its golden years, it is hardly surprising that it feels familiar to anyone who knows Vienna. The renowned Viennese architects Fellner & Helmer left a lasting mark on the town. They designed the Municipal Theatre, several of the elegant colonnades, and the Imperial Spa, creating much of the city’s distinctive character.
also part of the Pupp empire @Karlovy Vary
the view from the Castle Hill @Karlovy Vary
Karlovy Vary is best explored on foot, especially since much of the historic centre is pedestrianised. Wandering through its streets is a delight. One elegant building follows another and every corner seems to reveal another architectural gem.
Do not miss the many bridges crossing the Teplá River. Along its banks stand rows of beautifully preserved buildings, each one competing for the admiration of passersby.
the river Teplá runs through the town @Karlovy Vary
look at the details on this house @Karlovy Vary
a bridge with a horse drawn carriage on the other side @Karlovy Vary
What impressed me most was how perfectly preserved the town feels, almost as though history had simply passed it by.
houses from different centuries @Karlovy Vary
At the far end of the historic centre, the riverside promenade leads into a peaceful park opposite Hotel Thermal. Even the street lamps seem as though they have remained untouched since the 19th century.
small park with a pond @Karlovy Vary
these street lanterns @Karlovy Vary
And honestly, who would not want to live in one of those picturesque towers overlooking the town?
a townhouse with a tower @Karlovy Vary
By the time we turned back towards the centre, even the weather had decided to cooperate, bathing Karlovy Vary in sunshine.
always along the Teplá river @Karlovy Vary
We spent two nights in Karlovy Vary, but you can comfortably explore the town itself in a single day. That still left us enough time for a detour to the nearby medieval town of Loket, where legend says Charles IV was orignally hunting when he discovered the famous spring. The surrounding countryside is every bit as beautiful as Karlovy Vary itself and deserves far more than a weekend.
Karlovy Vary is the perfect base for exploring this fascinating corner of Czechia. Just make sure you leave enough time to enjoy the town itself, because there is far more to discover here than its famous thermal springs. Yours, Pollybert
