Kutsch derives its name from the market below its location. The Kutschkermarkt already offers a home to a couple of restaurants, but there is always room for one more. Kutsch offers typical Austrian food with a modern twist. What’s especially nice, Kutsch is open on Sundays and holidays as well. We timed our visit on such a holiday and met for an early dinner.
Kutsch has two dining rooms, a large one with the bar up front, and a smaller one in the back. It was interesting to note that in the front room only one table was occupied by a single person. The back room though housed a large group of eight persons, and three more tables with another eight persons in total. The noise level here was deafening and only improved after the large family left.
The couvert included a small loaf of bread, some kind of buttery spread with paprika, and an amuse gueule. I liked the bread, which was still warm and had a nice crust, but the butter had lost all taste to me and I didn’t notice anything of the paprika except for the color. My friends though loved it.
The amuse guele was a small fried morsel of porcino with a dollop of chive aioli, and for the meat eaters it was a fried ravioli filled with blood sausage. The mushroom tasted nice enough, while I didn’t care much for the ravioli. Mine was not enough seasoned, while the one from my friend was definitely salted.
For starters I ordered goose soup, with parsnip and giblets. The soup was tasty, rich and buttery, but there was not a lot of substance and not a lot of content either.
The potato leek soup was way better received and had an absolutely stunning green color. Unfortunately I do not have a picture of it. But it was very good.
The other starter was the ‘market vegetables‘ which came either raw, grilled, or pickled and with a small dish of chive aioli on the side. A small plate arrived with a couple of grilled mushroom slices, artichoke halves, carrots, cauliflower roses, pepper, and yellow beet slices. It was nice enough. Overall it was a rather meager bounty from the market though, especially for the price (11,50 for the plate).
My main dish was a veal bavette steak with creamy polenta, mushrooms, and gremolata. It was again a rather small portion, but the dish was fantastic. I loved the meat in combination with the gremolata. The lemon zest shone through and it gave the dish a very fresh taste. Really lovely!
My friends both ordered the vegetarian Fregola Sarda with stewed red pepper and herbal salad. The salad was a bit of a disappointment since it consisted of a couple of leaved sprinkled over the dish. The fregola was good but nothing special. Both of them looked kind of underwhelmed.
Interestingly enough the meal concluded with another sample from the kitchen. This time it was a plume crumble with a flame torched Zabaione. I loved it! It had a nice enough size, tasted lightly of cinnamon and the zabaione had a great consistency with anybody to satisfy my sweet tooth. Great ending for an otherwise okay meal!
Honestly, as much as I enjoyed some of the dishes, overall Kutsch still has some room for improvement left. First of all it needs to do something about the acoustics in the smaller room. My ears felt numb after a while. Although Kutsch has an interesting menu, the execution was not always up to par. With such pricing, each dish should be a highlight. At least in the evening. Maybe it’s better to give it a go for lunch? Yours, Pollybert
1180 Wien, Schopenhauerstrasse 19
Tel: +43 676 3668849
Wed-Fri: 12:00-15:00, 17:30-22:30, Sat: 09:00-15:00, 17:30-22:30, Sun 09:00-15:00