My first coffee in Belgrade was a takeaway, for the second one I drank sitting down. After our visit of the fortress we turned around and went back to the pedestrian zone. Quite at the beginning we found Kafeterija Magazin 1907 in a side street. Coffee and service were lovely. Also, excellent wifi.
Kafeterija Magazin 1907 @Belgrade
We stopped for lunch at Manufaktura, which advertises with traditional Serbian food. I ordered Sarma, which is sauerkraut rolls stuffed with meat, and mashed potatoes on the side. The Serbian salad with hot pepperonis on top was a bit tricky. Sylvia ate Shopska salad and some bread rolls with sour cream. It’s probably a restaurant for tourists, because we were clearly not the only ones, but the food was really good.
Shopska salad and Sarma @Manufaktura
Of course, like every other tourist, we needed to check out the Moskva hotel for drinks. And that was even before we had seen it during the free walking tour. The hotel looked just so fabulous from the outside, it was time to enjoy the interior.
after dark @Hotel Moskva
What better thing to order than the famous Moskva cake and a glass of rosé. The cake was a soft almond biscuit slathered with rich buttercream, as well as cherries and peach in the middle. It was a bit much maybe, so be careful when you order it.
Moskva cake and rosé @Moskva hotel
Around the corner of the Tesla museum we found the restaurant Na Ćošku or ‘At the corner’, where we stopped for a late lunch. While in Serbia I had to eat Cevapcici, so that’s what I ordered with a carrot cabbage salad mix with horseradish on the side. It’s not the lightest dish, very good then that I didn’t order any extra carbohydrates with it.
Cevapcici @Na Ćošku restaurant
For our last dinner in Belgrade we headed to Skadarlija quarter. This bohemian area had lots of cobbled streets and looked very pretty, but they were definitely not waiting for us to have dinner there. Every place we checked was busy and fully booked. So you would do well to make a reservation on the weekend, no matter which restaurant you want to seek out.
walking around Skadarlija quarter @Belgrade
Instead we headed back to the Republic Square, an area we knew well by now. We ended up having dinner at April restaurant. The food was delicious, but it was again meat and potatoes. Serbia is definitely not known for its light cuisine.
meat and mashed potatoes @April restaurant
While in Zemun we ate lunch outside, just imagine that at the beginning of December. With the sun out it was warm enough to enjoy our meal without stressing about it cooling immediately. The whole quay is one long line of restaurants, we eventually settled on the Danubius restaurant. I ate perch, supposedly fresh from the Danube. The slight hint of mud, which I could taste in the back, made me think it came from some pond. Usually river fish don’t have that muddy taste due swimming against the current. Even though the Danube looks to flow rather languidly here, it does flow.
grilled perch with potatoes @Danubia restaurant
We ate our last dinner in Belgrade at Communale restaurant, an Italian place. It is one of many places along the the Sava. This must be gorgeous in summer, with its large outdoor space next to the river. Dinner was delicious, if one of the more expensive ones. But best of all were the drinks.
bar @Communale restaurant
Another place around the corner from the Tesla museum is the café Buscaglione. We didn’t get anything to eat there, but the coffee was great and the service wonderful. Yours, Pollybert
coffee @Café Buscaglione
